Welcome to Muscle Car City Tips and News page.

Here you will find the latest news and the greatest muscle car restoration tips on-line. Each month we will cover different aspects on rebuilding your dream cars from the bottom up. Each month our muscle car restoration expert will answer some of the question that our viewers have emailed us.

If you have an old muscle car, being it a old Mopar, Chevy, Ford, Pontiac, Oldsmobile or any classic american muscle cars, that you are trying to find or trying to rebuild, send us an email we could help.

In the coming months you will find restoration tips videos, hints, tips and many other helpful muscle car restoration articles that will make your restoration purchase/project as smooth as possible.

Articles

• 4 Simple Must Do Ispections for the Novice Classic Muscle Car Investor
  
  How to rebuild carburetor
  
  

Coming by September 2007 - Article & Video #1 -
4 Simple 'Must Do' Inspection's for the Novice Classic Muscle Car Investor:
(Article will cover 4 simple steps that our master muscle car restoration expert have come up with, that will help any Novice Muscle Car Investor before buying . This is the biggest and most talked about issue that investors gets themselves when buying their first muscle car restoration project.)

A Quick Check of body work

This is a very easy, way to determine if the seller is legimate in claiming original paint, or no bondo or body work has been done to the car.
Tool’s needed:
A little piece of carpet. It’s nice to have for getting on your knee’s to inspect lower areas of the car.

A bright flash light: Many times especially in the trunk areas and the undercarriage you will need this.

A magnet: A simple small magnet that you can use on the lower panels of the car.
“Note do not drag a magnet across body panels. A seller will not appreciate the scratches you will leave.

Start the inspection one panel at a time:  A panel being a door, fender, trunk etc.
It is best to start at the drivers door and work your way around the car.

Original paint:
As you inspect the drivers door, look at the key lock, door handle, exterior mirror base, open the door inspect the rubber that is attached to door.  Is there any signs of paint on those pieces? The point here is. The car was painted as a shell. Then assembled at the factory so if the paint is original. There will not be paint on assembly items such as door rubber, trunk rubber, chrome moldings, door locks, handles, mirror bases etc.
Also a quality paint job means removing those items before painting.
If the car was only masked off “Taped” that is a red flag for cheap body work.

No Bondo:
First off Bondo, Body filler, what ever you want to call it is a vital part of the restoration business. We can no longer use lead without dying so Bondo or Body filler is the alternative.
It is the application of the Bondo that is important. The correct way to apply Bondo is after the repair has been made. Then apply the Filler as a light coat.
What happens many times is the repair was never made and was only filled in with bondo. I have personally seen house caulking and Bondo holding together a lower patch done on a cars quarter panel. A Mustang we once restored for a client had approximately 4 inches of bondo covering a complete quarter panel repair done with a pop rivet gun.

Trunk: Move anything out of your way that limits you from really looking at the inner quarter panels and trunk floor. When you open the trunk stick your head in there a little and with your flash light look to the left. You are looking at the inner LH quarter panel.
What do you see?
What you should not see is:  dried bondo tips oozing out of drill holes, or a really wrinkled panel covered by undercoating spray. Really look at the trunk area quarter
panels, trunk floors. These areas are not cheap to replace and if the car has been hit or is rusted out these repairs are often done unprofessionally to get rid of the car.

Wheel Wells